sewing saturday.. chambray trousers and spring finds

Sewing Saturday! Just a few steps this weekend.

Last week, I began wide legged chambray trousers by prepping the pattern pieces, ironing, pinning, and cutting. This week, I started sewing the pieces.

To begin, I sewed darts into the two front pieces, pressing them towards the center. I then sewed the front crotch seam together, stitching over the original seam twice for added strength. I clipped the seams with pinking shears.

I sewed the pocket lining to the pockets, right sides together, keeping two sides open. Once that was finished, I clipped the seam allowances and corners of the waistband fusible interfacing then attached it by placing the glue side to the wrong side of corresponding waistband piece and ironing it directly with a steam iron (not completely sure if this method was supposed to work, but it did).

That's all for today! Next weekend, I'll have the trousers finished. For now, I leave you guys with photos of some recent spring finds - vintage quilted fabric, a wooden trinket box, and other odds and ends.

sewing saturday! chambray wide legged trousers

Sewing Saturday! This week, I began a project of mine I've been dreaming of for spring.. a pair of light chambray wide legged trousers. The pattern is from the early 1970s with a high, structured waist, turned up leg openings, and lined pockets in the front.

What you'll need.. 2-3 yards of fabric (in this case, lightweight chambray denim) as well as less than half a yard of lightweight interfacing and fabric for lining. The waistband is interfaced, and the pockets are lined. Also, a seven inch zipper for the front opening.

I began preparations by ironing out the fabric and fabric pieces and lining them up, according to the pattern's instructions.

I then pinned the pattern pieces to the fabric and cut them out!

This upcoming week, I'll begin sewing - starting with attaching the pocket lining to the pockets and sewing the waistline darts.

That's all for today.. shop update coming soon!

sewing saturday! red velvet valentine dress

Sewing Saturday! I didn't expect to have a completed project to share with you guys today - but after two full days of sewing, I finished my Valentine dress!

Now, it's just a matter of waiting a full week to wear it.

Lots of steps, so I'll try to abbreviate a bit (sorry there aren't photos for every step.. I'm trying to keep this short-ish, but if you have any questions, feel free to email me!).

My first section to finish was the bodice, which was considerably more time-consuming than the skirt. I began by marking and sewing darts - four in the back (shoulder and waist), and two in the front (bust). I clipped them with pinking shears and pressed them.

Using my zipper foot, I sewed the 18 inch zipper at the back, pressing the 5/8 seam allowance on both center ends of the back bodice inwards, as well as attaching the two back pieces by sewing a couple of inches at the bottom of the bodice.

I then tackled the facing - armhole and neck. The neck came in three different pieces, so I sewed them together and clipped and pressed the seams. I then sewed 1/4 inch from the outer edges of all three facing pieces, pressed at the stitching line inwards, then stitched over the pressed 1/4 inch. I sewed the facing, right sides together, to their designated spots on the bodice, making sure to match markings. I pinned them in place first and trimmed the seams afterwards. Once they were stitched in place, I stitched a second seam right above the first on the facing, stitching the inside seam edges and facing together to reinforce it a bit.

I then pressed the facing pieces inside (this is the part where you should stitch them in place inside the dress.. and if I wasn't lazy, I'm sure I would have done that). Then, I stitched the sides of the bodice together - front to back, right sides together.

Skirt! The skirt pattern pieces called for two separate pieces for the back and one for the front (cut at the fold), just like the front and back bodice. First step was sewing the two back skirt pieces together (so the seam would be the center back seam on the skirt of the dress, and be in line with the zipper), then sewing the back piece to the front at the sides. I then pressed the hem and sewed it - I pressed two inches, wrong sides together, at the hem, then folded one inch of the hem inwards, pinned it, and stitched it shut.

Then it was time to gather the skirt. I gathered the skirt the old fashioned way this time.. stitching two lines at the top of the skirt (within the 5/8 inch seam allowance), being careful not to backstitch or connect the ends (or cross the lines). I then pulled the threads and gathered along them, spacing it apart so the width of the skirt matched the width of the bodice (for a more detailed description, go here).

Then, I had two finished pieces. I sewed them at the waist, right sides together.

Somewhere along the way, I had to choose which trim I'd use on the bodice. I wrestled between a lot of choices, but mainly these three - two strands of thin, cream colored lace and light pink floral buds. I ended up choosing the flowers.. I sewed three buds near the neckline, once the dress was finished.

Finished! What do you guys think? And how would you style this dress? I'm thinking cream colored tights and maybe some lace up oxfords.

To bed for me, I've got an early morning. Lots to do tomorrow.. fabric shopping, work downtown, time with friends, art crawl, amateur wrestling. A weird mix. Have a great weekend!

sewing saturday! wool cape plaid lining and upper collar

Sewing Saturday! Last week, I assembled the outer shell of the cape. This week, I put together the plaid wool lining and eventually attached the lining to the outer layer.

The lining assembly roughly followed the same steps as the outer shell with a few variations. First, I added the darts - mark, sew, clip with pinking shears, and press.

I stitched along the arm opening, like before with the outer shell. Instead of adding welts, however, all I had to do with these arm openings was cut through the middle of the opening and with diagonal slants towards each corner. I then pressed the arm hole open towards the inside.

I put together the two cape back pieces, then attached the two front pieces to either side of the back. When sewing the back pieces, I left an opening in the seam large enough to pull the cape through later on (after I attached the lining to the outer shell).

The interfaced under collar had been attached to the outer shell - and reversely, I attached the upper collar (no interfacing) to the plaid lining at the neck, right sides together.

Once the lining had been completed, I sewed the outer shell to the plaid lining, right sides together, at the seam allowances on the outer edges.. and that's all for this week!

Now that the pieces have been put together, all that is left is top stitching the edges, slip stitching the hole in the lining back and the lining armholes to the outer layer armholes, and adding the tab and button hole. I'm planning on finishing these steps tomorrow night or the next day, so expect a finished product this week sometime (I can't wait til Christmas to finish it! not this week).

Hope you all had a great weekend!